STEP ONE: Get a Soil Test
· This shows what your lawns strengths and weaknesses are. Based on the findings, you can decide which fertilizers and soil amendments, such as limestone, you’ll need as you convert to organic care. Tests can be done by pros or with do it yourself kits available in stores and online at sites such as www.gardensalive.com
· Our Take: I got a test but didn’t pay attention, because I was in a hurry to start trying new products. It would have saved time and money if I’d first used the test to figure out what my lawn really needed.

STEP TWO: Dump the Pesticides
· Accept that nothing annihilates weeds as fast as chemicals – but know that with patience, you can eliminate most of them naturally. One key weapon: a natural corn-gluten herbicide, such as Cockadoodle DOO Weed Control or WeedBan (available at www.purebarnyard.com and www.extremelygreen.com). Safe for kids and pets, but not when seeding new grass because it stops all seeds from germinating (apply in early spring and late summer).
· Our Take: If the weeds overwhelm the grass, consider tearing up the turf and starting over as I did. (See step six). Meanwhile to break up the monotony of hand weeding, invest in some cool weeding tools like the Dandelion Terminator, a spear that attaches to your drill, or the Weed Hound, which is easy on the back. If dandelion go to seed (get a big, fluffy white head) use a small lighter to fry their heads so seeds don’t spread. Just 15 minutes of hand weeding every week in the first year will work wonders.

STEP THREE: Switch to Natural Fertilizers
· Organic fertilizers are made from plant, animal or mineral sources such as bone meal, sulfate of potash and blood meal, while synthetic ones are manufactured chemically. Both deliver nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium to plants, but organic fertilizers should have actual sources of these elements listed on the bag. Organic brands can now be found in most gardening centers and home improvement chains, including Home Depot and Lowe’s. Fertilize in fall and in midspring.
· Our Take: Don’t expect your lawn to turn emerald green the way it does with many synthetics. The soil’s microorganisms need time to digest organic nutrients, but after they do, the lawn should retain its color throughout the season.

STEP FOUR: Mow High and Water Deep
· Keep grass on the longish side – 3inches – to fight weeds. Don’t cut the lawn while its wet. Leave clippings to feed the soil, but rake out clumps so grass doesn’t turn brow underneath. Lawns need about one inch of water a week. Water early – 5a.m. to 8.am. is best – and for concentrated periods. Light sprinkling fosters weak roots. Water from late spring to early fall.
· Our Take: You need sharp motor blades. I didn’t sharpen my blades enough early on, and the grass tore at the tips. Alternate the direction you cut your lawn to help strengthen the grass.

STEP FIVE: Enhance the Turf
· Nutrients like compost tea sprays, liquid seaweed and grub deterrents may build soil’s biology and fight pests. Brands can be found at www.gardensalive.com and www.extremelygreen.com.
· Our Take: The 1,400 pounds of organic compost I raked into my soil last fall were the big boost that made my grass flourish this spring.

STEP SIX: The Seedy Truth
· When nights are cool, grass grows best. Fall is the ideal time to over seed lawn and fill in any bare spots.
· Our Take: Last fall, with weeds winning, I rototilled up my lawn with the help of a neighbor, raked up the weeds, added compost and replanted the grass. The lawn had a head start to get a good foothold before spring brought the weed onslaught

Also, don’t fear adding a little clover unless you are severely allergic to bee stings; it puts nitrogen back into the soil and is drought-tolerant and virtually disease resistant.